Sunday, March 29, 2009

Nicaragua - San Juan Del Sur, Ometepe, Granada

I just spent like 30 minutes typing a blog about the last week and it got erased so I am going to try and make this a lot more brief. I crossed into Nicaragua on the 23rd with Erika, my traveling buddy who also went to Humboldt State, and we met two girls along the way who we have been traveling with since, Toni and Holly. Both are from Vegas and are the first people from Nevada I have met traveling. Nicaragua is much like northern Costa Rica in that it is incredibly hot and dry without much greenery.

The fist couple days here we spent in San Juan Del Sur, a cool little town on the Pacific near the lake, and surrounding beaches. The town was very relaxed and had an entertaining night life though the people at the bars were mostly westerners. Le beaches were beautiful though I would still rate the ones I saw in Costa Rica higher. After a couple days of that we decided we were sick of beaches and headed to Ometepe.

Ometepe is an island that formed in the middle of Lago de Nicaragua as the result of two active volcanoes. It’s a unique place with a small amount of cool jungle with monkeys and several species of birds that only live there. The lake itself is huge and is home to the only fresh water sharks in the world (though they have been hunted to near extinction). We found a very cool hostel with a lot of backpackers and offered activities to post up at while there. The second day we hiked to the top of the nearby southern volcano and into the crater to swim in the lake that has formed there. The scenery was incredible though the lake was about 4 feet of mud with 18 inches of water on top of it. The excitement began on the way down when three of us got separated from each other and the guide and ended up totally lost. One of the girls ended up on the wrong side of the volcano and had to take two buses to get back to the meeting point and one of the other girls and myself ended up having to cut through barb wire fences and cattle fields asking for directions to the road (we couldn’t remember the name of the hostel) from the couple cattle farmers we saw.


The third day we took out two person kayaks to see the two monkey islands nearby. Everything was going smoothly until one of the girl and the guy she was into the kayak with decided to get too close to the monkeys which turned out to be incredibly hostile. I looked over because I hear d screaming to see one of the monkeys jump off a tree into the kayak and begin shaking the crap out of Holly while another one jumped in and started grabbing for goods. They tried to fight the monkeys off with a paddle but it promptly stole it and jumped back to the island. They managed to get the little bastards off by paddling away from the island. The monkeys are apparently scared of the water and so jumped back to safety. The whole thing only took maybe two minutes and was one of the funniest things I have ever seen (as no one was actually hurt). It took almost 30 minutes to lure the devils away from the paddle so someone could swim over and grab it.


We got to Granada last night in time to meet some typically big, crazy, drunk Australians and go out and get wasted. Was the first time we have gone big in a while and we are all hurting now. We are checking out this morning and heading to Managua to watch a soccer game which we are told will be quite a scene as the teams apparently hate each other. It will be made more interesting by the hand over, lack of sleep and intense heat.


Pictures to come…

Saturday, March 21, 2009

Manuel Antonio, Monteverde, Samara and Tamarindo

So, Costa Rica. The country is different from Guatemala though the differences are not that huge. Hotter women and a hotter coastal climate are the two big things that come to mind. The pura vida lifestyle is very apparent as the people are, for the most part, layed back and easy going. As with Guatemala the people are very friendly and helpful especially if you attempt to speak to them in spanish.

Manuel Antonio/Quepos was the first destination after landing in San Jose (a typical large developing nation type city). We arrived after a 5 or so hour bus ride with the only real highlight being when we crashed into one of the rest stop buildings because the driver couldnt get the bus into reverse. By the time we got to Quepos it was pretty late so we focused on finding a place to stay and grabbing dinner. We spent the next 5 days lounging on the beaches of Manuel Antonio (6km from Quepos) mostly though on the last day there we did go on a hike though the national park near the beach. The park was pretty packed with animals including sloths, spider monkies, small deer, iguanas, bats, spiders and so on. The real highlight of the area came as a complete surprise while waiting for a bus from Quepos to Manuel Anotonio. We were standing in line when out of no where Ally, a friend from Humbold that I went to highschool with, pops up and says hello. It was a total shock to say the least. Turns out she is living in Manuel Antonio working for tour agency. After the greeting we proceded to go out and get compleatly smashed at the main dance club in town. That was about it. Prople looking for a beautiful beach, relaxed environment and a lot of gringos will love this area.

Olga flew out on the 18th and I am now cruising solo up toward Nicaragua. The day she caught her plain I jumped on a bus and headed north to Monteverde. After 5 days or so in the coastal heat and humidity of the coast, this cool mountain town surrounded by cloud forests was exactly what I needed. The area is basically one big reserve. I sent the next two days hiking, taking a night tour through a portion of the reserve and going on the craziest zip line tour of my life. The forest was beautiful and the animals were cool but the zip line was probably the highlight. The views from the lines were great and the lines themselves were increadibly long. The larget one was 1km long and 540 feet hight.


While in Monteverde I was talked into going to Montezuma. I randomly met two women who were heading in that direction to a beach north of Montezuma so decided to avoid three busses and 7 hours of transportion and go with them. Unfortuantly The town we went to, Samara, didnt even have access to Montezuma unless I was to back track via several buses which would have taken forever. I spent one night there and then opted to head north to Tamarindo today, a well known party town, instead. On the bus I met a girl from Ventura that went to college in Humbilt. More proof that it is indeed a very small world. I am now off to explore and see what there is to see here. Ill add pictures at some point but dont have the cables with me. Laters

Thursday, March 12, 2009

Rio Dulce ended up being a pretty neat area. Took us two buses and around 8 hours to get there but it was worth it. The town itself was pretty much trash but the place we stayed, Casa Perico, was very cool. To get to it you have to take a boak across a portion of the inlet and a little ways down a small offshoot river. As the Kiwis we were with said "it was in proper jungle". I have a video that I will upload later but the place felt like the middle of the Amazon. The next morning we went with a couple we met from New Zealand to a hot water waterfall that spills into a cold river. The effect was pretty amazing. The water coming down was actually almost too hot to stand directly under. There was an over hang at the bottom of the fall that was a couple feet abover the water. When you went inside it was like being in a sauna.

After two days in Rio Dulce we headed to Livingston, a classic Caribian style town. The Boat ride up the Rio Dulce (which is actually the name of the lake/inlet that comes in on the Atlantic side) took about two hours and had fantastic scenery of dense jungle and tons of species of birds. On the way wa also went by a spanish fort that was built in the 17th century to keep pirates out of the area. The ride started in a very latin area but once in Livingston it felt more like Jamaca. The population was almost entirely black and the vibe/music/culture was a mix of African/Latin/Carribian. The result was interesting to say the least. Not too much happend while we were there outside of walking around the town and taking skittle shots with other travelors at the hostle.

We are now, after a 12 hour day of travel, in Costa Rica. The weather is much warmer here which we are still getting used to. Currently we are in a town called Quepos but tomorrow we are heading a few kilometers south to Manuel Antonio which is known for amazing beaches.

Due to a few conversations I have had and a recalculation of the time and money avaliable for my trip I have decided to cut out South America and head back up through pretty much all of Central America ending back in Guatemala in a few weeks then flying home from there. Turns out 3 months isnt enough for 2 continents.....



Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Atitlan and Beyond

Well we finished out last week in Antigua last Friday. Two weeks of spanish lessons helped a lot but I could use a couple more months. We only have a week left before we fly to Costa Rica on the 11th though so It was time to head out and see more of Guatemala.

We were able to squeeze in a couple more trips to the sights around Antigua during the week though, the highlight being climbing Pacaya, an active volcano outside of town. The hike itself was beautiful and the lava flow at the top is very active. I got some good picts and video that I will upload once Im somewhere that allows it.

We spent last weekend at Lake Atitlan at the towns of Panajachel and San Pedro. The lake is located a couple hours from Antigua and is at a high elevation between several mountains. Panajachel is the largest town on the lake and is where we spent the first night. There were several cool bars and good restaurants but the streets were swarming with aggresive vendors selling the usual useless crap. We ended up hanging out with an interesting old guy named Chris from the mid west somewhere. Listening to him trying to communicate in Spanish was the highlight of the evening.

San Pedro was a very different scene. Its know ans the ¨little cuba¨ of Guatemala and its pretty clear why as soon as you get off the boat. Before I had a chance to get my bearings there were locals offering every kind of drug I have ever heard of. There were a couple cool spots in the snall town such as a british bar that showed movies on a projector at night and restaraunts overlooking the lake. The night scene turned into a very strange techno dance party at many of the places though with a strange mix of people on various drugs. We didnt really get into the ¨vibe¨ of the place though and decided to head to Lanquin after just one night there (a night spent in our room hearing techno beats and people throwing up).

It took a full day to get to Lanquin, a small town nestled in the mountains with some of the most fantastic natural scenery I have ever sceen. The drive was supposed to take 6 hours but ended up taking over a full day as we had to spend the night in a town a couple hours away. Running super late and having to replan as you go has become natural though as everyone here runs on ¨Guatemalan time¨ meaning way behind schedule with frequent issues and unnecisary stops. The place we are staying at is all cabana/cabin style housing and is right next to a river which is 50 feet or so from our room.The area is quite at beautiful with tons of native birds and a great bar/restaurant with delicious food and a lively atmosphere.

The first night here we explored a huge cavern that is home to tens of thousands of bats. At dusk we sat just inside the cave as the bats woke and flew past us in swarms which was a fun but unnerving experience. Yesterday we went on a tour a little over a kilometer into another series of caverns. This set of caverns was much different though as most of them are only 10 feet or so high, sometimes less, and connected by waterways you have to swim though while holding a candle, the only source of light provided, above your head. It was easily one of the craziest experiences of my life. We then tubed down the river that runs outside of the cave and jumped off a bridge into it which was 30 feet or so high. The final part of the tour was to Semuc Champey, a series of tourcoise pools on a rock formation above the river. I can say that it was one of the, if not THE, most beautiful place I have ever been to. Ill post pictures soon as describing it takes more time.

We are heading to Rio Dulce tomorrow morning which should be interesting as it takes a series of busses to get there and none of them really have a specific schedule...Until then this is Morgan Terrill saying stay classy United States.